Thursday, March 08, 2007

Bad bus in big bad BA

Greetings from Buenos Aires. Finally we´ve reached a city where the temperature is bearable (but only because it is raining today - rest of the week has still been far too warm).
Have been a great time here. Lots to see, lots to drink. Difficult to find the right balance between the two. Think drink has won, especially when the bar next door to our hotel serves litre bottles of beer for 6 or 7 pesos (not much more than a pound!) and the landlady seems to keep the place open as long as there are still customers in the bar.
Anyway, we arrived here a day earlier than planned due to the accident and will also leave a daily than on the original schedule (but with a full truck of 24 people instead of 2 trucks of 12 each). Glad to have the extra time in the city. Started off the time with a bit of boozing in the Dark Bar next door to the hotel - would have been rude not too when it is so close - headed off to some swanky restaurant in the city centre (which set the trend for the week - veggie options: omelette or salad), and finished day 1 in an Irish bar just down the street because it was the only place open after midnight.
Having survived that, Tuesday morning was spent seeing lots of bits of the city when we took a coach tour. Excellent guide and lots to see: Palermo, Recoleta, La Boca, Plaza de Mayo amongst others. We confused Florencia, our guide, a little when all of the Dragoman gang looked out of the left of the coach whilst she was describing something on the right as we headed down to La Boca. We had spotted our two trucks parked up at a repair shop. This brief trip gave lots of ideas for what to do for the rest of the week.








Tuesday evening saw some time back in the Irish Bar to watch some Champions League football, then off to the Docks area for another smart restaurant and another salad. Wednesday was the first opportunity to explore the city on our own. Plan to try and cover most of the area we did on the city tour didn´t work out because I had to spend some time at an Olympus showroom getting a dud camera battery replaced. Did manage to visit Plaza de Mayo and the area around it, including the cathedral, and then walked on down to Retiro and finished the afternoon at the English Tower. The whole group had a trip to a tango show planned for the evening, but I had other initial priorities: i.e. the search for a bar that was showing the Arsenal Champions´League game. This was planned to be shown as live at 7pm local time. This clashed horribly with the departure for the tango show which was set for 8:15. Talked to the hotel reception about where the tango venue was and headed up there early in the hope of finding a bar showing the game. Got a real result when I found the tango place had a big screen. Had a chance to practice my Spanish, and talked the bar staff into tuning it in for the football. Only saw the first half there (they closed briefly to set up for the tango), so had to repeat the exercise at a bar over the road. Ended the evening back in the Dark Bar for a very long drinking session. Ana and Eduardo kept the bar open until 5am for us!
So, on to Thursday and I woke up to heavy rain. At least this gave an excuse for not being too energetic. Made a quick visit to the area of the Congress building. Not the best place in the rain - lots of construction work going on in the square in front of it, so very very muddy. Fortunately by the evening, the rain had let off. This was good news as I was heading off to watch River Plate play a game against Caracas in the South American equivalent of the Champions League. Had a good view from our uncovered seats. Shame the game wasn´t the best ever. Surprisingly Caracas actually one 1-0 with an early goal and although River Plate created lots of chances, they couldn´t put the ball in the net. Despite this though, the atmosphere was electric. Again headed down to the docks area for some food after the game (after midnight - South American soccer matches kick off late in the evening). Had a nice argument with an all you can eat restaurant. I turned up later than the rest and ordered a dessert only. I`ll admit to having sneaked a little bit of salad from one of the other guys and a few chips that they didn´t want, but the waitress then tried to ask the full all you can eat price. After a stand off for a while, I offered to pay if they´d bring me a plate so that I could try "all you can eat". Then another delay (in theory they had already closed 30 minutes earlier), and finally they caved in and charged me for the pancakes I had for dessert and we were free to go. Found another good bar in the middle of town - BarBar0. Drank through to 3:30 and then back to the hotel.

Friday saw the return of sunshine, so I finally headed out to Palermo to walk around all the parks in the area. Very hot by lucnhtime, so took a bit of time to chill in the Japanese Gardens. This had a large pond in the middle willed with large koi carp. Then saw the egret in the photos. Think I´m going to title them "The Optimist" - the fish were as big or bigger than the bird.
Then on to Recoleta, and the cemetery where Eva Peron is buried, before heading back down the very plush Avenida Alvear to Retiro and the Metro back to the hotel. A few more beers in the Dark Bar, and off to a club in town. And then the realisation that I hadn´t actually eaten anything all day other than a couple of cheese sandwiches, so a visit to the local pizzeria was called for at about 2am!

Our last day in the city arrived far too soon and it was only half a day as well. Word was that the truck would be ready and pick us up from the hotel at 1pm. Took the opportunity to head back down to La Boca and Camonito to get some photos and watch some of the street tango. Also managed to get myself involved when one of the dancers spotted me taking photos and insisted I pose for the camera with her. As you can see from the photo below, this was toughbut, as a tourist, it had to be done.

And then back to the hotel to await the arrival of Cameron. Had a chance for a quick sandwich over the road before settling in the hotel lobby with the other 23 now in our group. Waited for a while and then Dan appeared to say time had been put back until 2:30. Finally the truck arrived between 3:30 and 4 and we were on our way out of town.

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