Sunday, August 19, 2007

Galápagos cruise (part 2)

I know you are all waiting to find out about the final bit of my South American trip, but first I have got some photos back from my underwater camera(s). Seeing as these relate to earlier blog entries, here a are few of them:

La Lobería, San Cristóbal:

Enderby island, Floreana:









Santa Fé:

Bahía Gardner, Espanola:





And so, on to the rest of my cruise around the islands. Next stop was the town of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz for a day on land. Sunday evening was spent in town and was anice change to the bar on the Darwin. Unfortunately being Sunday, Puerto Ayora couldn't be described as party central, so it was still quite an early night. Monday morning and we're off to the Charles Darwin Centre to see Lonesome George and to learn a little about tortoise conservation. When we get to George's enclosure, he doesn't appear to have moved in the week since I was last here. Walk around the rest of the centre and then back to the boat (via the shops) for lunch.

















In the afternoon, we head up into the highlands of the island and two of the activities I took part in last week: Primicias Ranch to see wild Santa Cruz tortoises and the lava tunnel. Get an added bonus this time as we catch a couple of tortoises endeavouring to increase the number of their species. Then its into the lava tunnel and back to town for a little while before heading back to the Darwin.












We wake up the next morning off the coast of Isla Rabida. A dinghy trip ashore and a walk along the beach to see sea-lions, pelicans, oystercatchers, and a heron. Then a walk across the headland to another bay where Fabian our guide claims to have seen a shark in the water. We don't see it, but we will be snorkelling in the same stretch of water shortly.











Then six of us are taken around the headland from the beach to snorkel (and hopefully find that shark). Disaapointment soon sets in as the shark is nowhere to be seen. See a few sea stars and parrotfish amongst others. Then we round the headland and Mark spots a shark. Hooray! Swims away before I can get a photo but this one was closer than those at Corona del Diablo and full-grown too. Then, amazingly (and very luckily according to our guide later on), an enormous manta ray swims past us. It must have been at least 3 metres from wing-tip to wing-tip. Wow! And below the ray is another shark. Decide to swim with the ray for a while and get a couple of photos. Then reluctantly turn to swim back to the rest of our group and there is another manta ray coming towards me. Swim back to the beach on a real high. What a morning.






After lunch we head up the coast of Isla Santiago to James Bay and Puerto Egas. Volcanic rock formations here are amazing. Lots of pools and "grottos" in the rocks with marine iguanas, turtles, fur seals and sea-lions. Even see a Galápagos hawk over the bay. Get our first sight of marine iguanas swimming in the water. Also spot turtles swimming right at the surface in one of the grottoes (narrow water channels into, under, and through the volcanic rocks). Would love to swim here but it is banned under PNG rules :-(















Day 7 and we are now on the other side of Santiago at Isla Bartolomé just offshore from Pinnacle Rock. This is an island showing off all types of volcanic features: cinder cones, parasitic craters, lava flumes. Landing from the dinghy we walk up the boardwalk to the highest point of the island. This is only 114 metres above sea level but the views are amazing. Have the chance to see a couple of boobies and a great blue heron on the way back to the boat.








A short cruise and we are at our final snorkelling point. This is in a small channel between Isla Santiago and the smaller island of Sombrero Chino. This time, our boat captain leads the way. Lots of things to see: marine iguanas feeding ion algae underwater, a couple of white-tipped reef sharks, penguins swimming in the water, and loads more fish. A good final session in the water but nothing to compare with Isla Rabida.













After a short break we cross to Sombrero Chino for a walk on the old lava flows. Not a lot of wildlife to see but there are some sea-lions, crabs, and marine iguanas.










During the evening we get to say goodbye to our guide and crew. From left to right below they are Romiro, Canela, Leo, Patrizio, Paco, Capitan Agustin, guide Fabian:






A small party ensues with salsa/ marengue dancing and a little bit of alcohol.





Day 8. Final day (or part day). Arrive North Seymour island very early in the morning and then have a walk before breakfast. See loads of blue-footed boobies and chicks of all ages. Then get to see a few male frigatebirds displaying their red throat pouches. Finally a red-footed booby lands in a tree not too far from us. Then it is back on the boat for our final breakfast, and a final bit of packing. All too soon, we reach Baltra for the airport at just after 9am. Have a plenty of time to say goodbye to everyone: their flight is after midday. Then it is off on the bus to Puerto Ayora for my final couple of days on the Galápagos.