Last days in Argentina
Moving on from Torres del Paine, we crossed the border back into Argentina and the towns of El Calafate, El Chalten, and San Carlos de Bariloche. Theme of the last few days has been plenty of exercise, lots of ice, and beautiful scenery.
Starting with El Calafate, the main reason for visiting was to go and see the Perito Moreno Glacier which is fairly close by. Trip on the truck over there was a bit of a struggle (again) as we´d had a very drunken night out in the town the night before (no surely not, I hear you gasp in amazement!). Managed to sober up for the boat trip to the glacier with the aid of a very large cup of coffee and an even larger slice of cherry gateau just before boarding. Sailed failry close to the ice which is an impressive sight. Up to 60m high above the water, there is another 120m hidden beneath the surface. Then a chance to walk along the shore for some good views across the ice, and a bit of time spent waiting for a photo of a chunk of the glacier to plummet into the lake (no hope - the ice stayed firmly in place where we were looking of course.
El Chalten had an ice theme about it too as 3 of our group (Rich, Emily and yours truly) joined some other trekkers for a hike up to and onto the Glacier Torres. Walk was great with wonderful views of the mountains ahead and included a river crossing by Tyrolean traverse (basically being harnessed to a cable and pulling yourself across upside down. Glacier itself was really cool - crevasses, pools, beautiful blues and whites. Plus we also got to do a bit of ice climbing with ropes, ice axes, and crampons. As an additional bonus, it didn´t cloud over until we had left the ice.
Day 2 in El Chalten and another long walk. Two of us set off to get to the view point of Fitz Roy mountain. Both made it, despite the exertions of the past weeks and the fact that Jen was still suffering from a blistered heal suffered in Torres. More amazing views, steep climbs, and good weather when needed (i.e. on the way to the view point). 24k later and we were back at camp in time to relax for a little while before heading out into town for food and more alcohol (the town has its own brewery, so we had to sample some - it would have been rude not to). Should have two whole days on the truck to recover and catch up with some sleep.
So much for two days to recover. Admittedly we did get over two days on the truck but seeing as one of the places we camped was on the edge of a town with bars, inevitably, we ended up going out to drink (and play pool for a change). Staying in a hostel in Bariloche, so get a real bed for a couple of nights. Well, actually a bunk in a cramped dorm. In El Calafate I lucked out by being assigned a dorm with space and its own washroom. This time, I think the guys are probably in the most cramped dorm in the hostel. Add to that the fact that the only window is very small and faces a hill at the back of the hostel, then there isn´t much light either. Very jealous of the rest of the group as they are either in rooms facing the front of the hostel with loads of daylight streaming in or across the street in cottages.
Anyway it looks like I won´t be using the dorm much anyway. Had a great meal away from the main tourist section of the town last night, followed by beer and dancing at an Irish bar back in the centre (Wilkenny´s). More exercise today in the form of moutain biking. Beautiful area of the country with hills, lakes, and mountains and a circular bike trail taking in some really good views of everything (and 3 microbreweries - Jen and me restricted ourselves to visiting just one of them but I suspect the other four riders will make the most of the opportunity!) . Bit of shopping to be done this afternoon, then suspect there will be another quiet night in tonight (not).
Starting with El Calafate, the main reason for visiting was to go and see the Perito Moreno Glacier which is fairly close by. Trip on the truck over there was a bit of a struggle (again) as we´d had a very drunken night out in the town the night before (no surely not, I hear you gasp in amazement!). Managed to sober up for the boat trip to the glacier with the aid of a very large cup of coffee and an even larger slice of cherry gateau just before boarding. Sailed failry close to the ice which is an impressive sight. Up to 60m high above the water, there is another 120m hidden beneath the surface. Then a chance to walk along the shore for some good views across the ice, and a bit of time spent waiting for a photo of a chunk of the glacier to plummet into the lake (no hope - the ice stayed firmly in place where we were looking of course.
El Chalten had an ice theme about it too as 3 of our group (Rich, Emily and yours truly) joined some other trekkers for a hike up to and onto the Glacier Torres. Walk was great with wonderful views of the mountains ahead and included a river crossing by Tyrolean traverse (basically being harnessed to a cable and pulling yourself across upside down. Glacier itself was really cool - crevasses, pools, beautiful blues and whites. Plus we also got to do a bit of ice climbing with ropes, ice axes, and crampons. As an additional bonus, it didn´t cloud over until we had left the ice.
Day 2 in El Chalten and another long walk. Two of us set off to get to the view point of Fitz Roy mountain. Both made it, despite the exertions of the past weeks and the fact that Jen was still suffering from a blistered heal suffered in Torres. More amazing views, steep climbs, and good weather when needed (i.e. on the way to the view point). 24k later and we were back at camp in time to relax for a little while before heading out into town for food and more alcohol (the town has its own brewery, so we had to sample some - it would have been rude not to). Should have two whole days on the truck to recover and catch up with some sleep.
So much for two days to recover. Admittedly we did get over two days on the truck but seeing as one of the places we camped was on the edge of a town with bars, inevitably, we ended up going out to drink (and play pool for a change). Staying in a hostel in Bariloche, so get a real bed for a couple of nights. Well, actually a bunk in a cramped dorm. In El Calafate I lucked out by being assigned a dorm with space and its own washroom. This time, I think the guys are probably in the most cramped dorm in the hostel. Add to that the fact that the only window is very small and faces a hill at the back of the hostel, then there isn´t much light either. Very jealous of the rest of the group as they are either in rooms facing the front of the hostel with loads of daylight streaming in or across the street in cottages.
Anyway it looks like I won´t be using the dorm much anyway. Had a great meal away from the main tourist section of the town last night, followed by beer and dancing at an Irish bar back in the centre (Wilkenny´s). More exercise today in the form of moutain biking. Beautiful area of the country with hills, lakes, and mountains and a circular bike trail taking in some really good views of everything (and 3 microbreweries - Jen and me restricted ourselves to visiting just one of them but I suspect the other four riders will make the most of the opportunity!) . Bit of shopping to be done this afternoon, then suspect there will be another quiet night in tonight (not).
posted by Alan at 7:18 pm
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